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  1. Yesterday
  2. biodreamer

    Editing Part Photos

    imo diskspace is cheaper than ever but sure I am not paying the bill and the earlier you make the move the less work will it be, but sure you will have to keep both formats for a long time, but you don't need to keep adding more images that needs to be converted later. besides it less space than unprocessed images and I am sure you can run some image optimizer on them to keep them smaller.
  3. So much better! By a an order of magnitude. 😁
  4. You're welcome. To be sure, your question did make me check the black parts I newly rendered. Below the current image for 3747b, slightly bluish, and only 250x250px; and the new image, four times as large (500x500) and with a different camera position. On my monitor the new color looks better, but it is good to show it, and see if others (with other monitors) agree.
  5. Thanks for the explanation! I have modeling/rendering experience if that would be helpful in any way. I also use to work in a machine shop so I have CAD experience as well though I've never heard of LDraw before today. If there's any way I can help contribute let me know. My apologies for the unnecessary post, and thanks again for taking the time to explain the situation.
  6. Jared, allow me to answer this... Hi, Emommsen. I think I understand your problem. Please hover with your cursor over the two parts that you think have the wrong color: the popup should say "in Black". In other words, the inventory is correct; but the images are slightly off. It's a problem I am already working on: most of our images for modern parts are element images, and we get them directly from LEGO. However, for older parts there are no element images, and then we try to use LDraw images, which we render ourselves. And the problem is, that the black color of our LDraw images is slightly bluish, while LEGO's element images in black are almost completely de-saturated, and look much more dark gray(ish). So in your screenshot almost all parts are in black, and only the two your mentioned have LDraw images with a different kind of black, that looks a bit bluish. I guess most people don't even notice this; I did, and I am trying to improve on this, but to get all those new LDraw images online we need some new hardware, so it could take a few month. I hope this solves your problem, if not, please let me know. Take care, Simon
  7. Thanks a bunch! I'm only level two right now so the site will not let me hit the change request button. I've attached a screen shot of what I'm seeing.
  8. Simon

    Editing Part Photos

    Hi, Bio. Yes, I really like your idea, and I would love to have a black theme for the website. Right now I am using Firefox and simply overwrite the color scheme, so I am already using a black background, and transparent images would look much better to me. And it will also make them more useful. But (as always.. -smile-), right now, only our LDraw images are png's, the element images and photos are jpgs, which don't support transparency. I am currently working on a new set of LDraw images, have about 80,000 done, still need to do another 20,000 or so, and those can have transparent backgrounds without any problem. Element images could be converted to png, but I am not sure how much additional disk space that would take, and Nathan has to decide if that is worth it. Most of the photos, however, still have a gray background and shadows and such, and I can't think of an easy way to switch those to transparent background. The photos that I am adding (and hopefully others will follow) are basically created as pngs, but when submitted, they are converted to jpg. So there we need some system changes. Let me check with Nathan is this might be possible. In the mean time: if an image has a perfect white background, it is very easy to convert that background to an alpha channel. Using ImageMagick: convert old.jpg -transparent white new.png with -fuzz you can set a fuzzy percentage (the specified percentage deviation from the pure white color to be converted to transparent as well) Take care, Simon
  9. biodreamer

    Editing Part Photos

    I would prefer if the images stayed transparent instead of white background. It would make it easier to reuse these pictures in a instruction summary. ie if you put them next to each other that square white box is taking up unnecessary space. It would be good to start to have that practice if we go the way of needing photo editing for submitted part photos. That way the images is more useful for other stuff such as handmade instructions and would open up for things like dark mode or themes on the site or in any app using the API to fetch images.
  10. Simon

    My lost parts sorting not working

    Hi, Miko, did some more testing, and, at least, part number sort has some problems. @Nathan- bug confirmed
  11. As I've been working to add my collection to Rebrickable over the past few months, I've came across a repeating issue that I think may warrant an overall change to the site as a solution. One of the first steps I frequently use to see if an inventory is complete is comparing the Rebrickable part count against the one on the box in my hand. When they don't match, it is often only by one number - and this is frequently either a brick separator or a sticker sheet but could also be a special poster or some other promotional item. Currently, I submit CRs to move these parts to the main inventory but I know there is a school of thought opposed to that idea since it prevents the "Build" function from getting to 100% for many folks based on parts that aren't really needed to build the model. I would like to propose adding a third category to the inventories - besides the main inventory and spare parts. Perhaps a name of "Non-build parts" would work. Parts in this category would be included in the set's part count - allowing the combination of main + 'non-build' parts to equal that on a Box while not including these parts in the main inventory and corrupting the site's "Build" calculations. I'm sure this would have any number of fallout impacts to the site's design but this would, in my opinion, be a better solution than either on the table currently - either having an inaccurate part count for an official set or preventing the "build" option from working as intended. Obviously, a flag to include or not include these "non-build" parts in the "build" algorithm would make sense. Adjusting existing sets to this approach would obviously need to be crowd sourced for speed but some things could be quick - brick separators and stickers for example. There are some edge cases that would need to be resolved whether they belong in the main inventory, "non-build" or spare parts. For example, many Speed Champions sets come with 8 wheel hubs (2 different designs of 4). Only 4 of these 8 are needed to build the model completely but part inventories wouldn't consider the other 4 as spare parts. Another example is that most sets that use a stud shooter (Star Wars Microfoghters for example) included spare studs as "ammo" and these parts are included in the set's partcpunt but aren't needed to build the model.
  12. So I just looked at the set and both the parts you said are already in black, so not sure what you’re seeing. Please SS if you are seeing Dark Blue
  13. To submit a CR go to the set that has the error. Scroll down until you see the change request button on the right (it’s right at the bottom) and give as detailed instructions as you can. Use rebrickable part numbers and colors otherwise things get confusing. And let us know how you know it’s wrong, for example this one would be “Source: I own this set and it’s in the instruction manual” i will sort this one out no problem, but you miss out on the points of you don’t do crs through the website, if that’s something you’re into. Hope that helps, jared
  14. I'm too much of noob to the site to be able to submit a change request. However, kit 7051-1 Tripod Invader lists two incorrect part numbers: 60470a and 3747b should both be the black versions of this part number instead of the navy blue color. I've attached a photo from the original 2011 instruction manual that own which lists these parts as 4556158 and 374726 respectively. I just signed up for the pro membership so I can modify the colors in my own kit list, but I thought I would try to contribute to the site. If there's something I'm not understanding about these parts please let me know. Thanks for anyone that can help!
  15. Last week
  16. Laiby77

    My lost parts sorting not working

    Hi, If I click on Color several times, the sort order toggles between ascending and descending, as you said, but first item in list is Air Blast Launcher in Lime or Wing Feathered in White. If I click on Part several times, then first items are all black part in alphabetically order by part name or all yellow parts in alphabetically order by part name.
  17. Simon

    My lost parts sorting not working

    Hi, Laiby77, welcome to the forum. I can NOT reproduce this problem; however, if I click on Color several times, the sort order toggles between ascending and descending, and depending on the specific parts, that might give the impression of switching between color and part number. Could that be your problem? If not, feel free to say so, and we will investigate further. Take care, Simon
  18. Laiby77

    My lost parts sorting not working

    Hi, Sorting list of my lost parts is not working correctly. If I select Color, it sorts by Part. If I select Part, it sorts by color. Category sorts by part name. Hue and price seems to work correctly. This problem exits with Chrome and Internet Explorer. Now its difficult to compare lost parts list and loose parts list. Has anyone solution for this? Kind regards Miko
  19. Simon

    Editing Part Photos

    You're right, I am actually re-shooting all my part photos in natural light, with better colors and more details. But your "pick white point option" is a great feature, basically resetting white balance, and I did not know that, so thanks for the suggestion. I will add a note about it in the tutorial. As to cropping, I agree, in the Photo Submit dialog you can move and crop manually, but I tried to make the tutorial also useful for MOC photos, and then cropping can be important. Take care, Simon
  20. slangivar

    Editing Part Photos

    That's a great guide. Thanks for putting in the effort. Because almost all photos taken under artificial light have some sort of tint to them, I add another intermediate step. Assuming that the picture was taken against a white background you can use the levels tool found in the colours menu to correct the entire image. In my view this gives a final piece colour closer to the actual colour. To do this open colours/levels and select the pick white point option: Then click anywhere in the white background of the picture (or if using a white part then the actual part). This sets the background to white and adjusts the part's colour accordingly. Doing this to your before.jpg image gives this result, I may have gone slightly too far by selecting part of the shadow as the background but personally think the colour of the brick is better: Removing the shadows from this is then a slightly easier process. I also skip your crop step because the upload process on Rebrickable provides the option to crop the image. If you are already aware of the colour levels tool and chose to omit it then please accept my apologies for treading on your toes.
  21. Lebostein

    Please Report Any Missing Or Incorrect Sets Here

    Thanks! Here is a list of all HiTechnic sensors with part and set links to Bricklink: http://lebostein.de/lego/sensors/
  22. biodreamer

    Am I allowed to submit a MOC not done with Lego parts?

    That is you can only use Lego molds and colors. if you happen to build your MOC out of clone bricks of any kind there must be a counter part/color in the Lego catalog. So if you just lack the number and filling in with mega blocks where normal Lego parts could be, that's fine for your local build but you can't use clone specific bricks or colors. because that makes them unbuildable with pure Lego bricks.
  23. Hi, ceekay, welcome to the forum! If you want to submit your MOC, you need three things: an inventory, a photo (or rendering) and some kind of building instruction. The inventory HAS TO HAVE LEGO parts - no discussion there, we don't have any other parts in our catalog. For the instructions, it doesn't really matter, some designers make a video, others a series of photo's; you could even make drawings, if you want, as long as someone else can build your model using your instructions. So if you create a series of photos using non-LEGO bricks, it wouldn't matter, however, the parts you show in your photos HAVE TO BE similar to LEGO parts. You can't include a part that LEGO never made. As to your model photo, the same applies. If it shows parts that LEGO never made, you can't use it. If the color is a bit off, that's not a problem. And you can always build your MOC virtually (using LDD or Studio) and use a rendering. Take care, Simon
  24. Hi, everybody! I have a few Lego sets [42009, 42074, 42065] but also have the Lego-like sets done by Xiaomi [xiaomi mitu builder]. //Unlike Lepin or Decool, Xiaomi personalized a few big parts of their sets to not look like Lego. Plus most of their parts have matte finishes.// All the joints, dimensions and sizes are identical and they are fully compatible with Lego. My question is: can I submit a MOC if it was done with Xiaomi parts? Of course, I have all the corresponding Lego part numbers, but I don't have enough Lego parts for my builds. Thanks
  25. Nathan

    Scroll to top button broken

    I've disabled the scroll to top button. I don't think the extra code required is worth it.
  26. Which still doesn't cover the part I want help with.the planning and execution of the dynamic growth I don't want my collection fragmented more than necessary so I have columns dedicated to categories, trying to keep the same color within the drawer boundaries as possible. so for example right now, I have enough black bricks to take up 53 cells ie one drawer is full (32)l + 21 cells in the next. The remaining 11 cells are occupied with other less common colors. I also got 9 new cells worth of drawer of black bricks to add here: So when I execute that move I end up with 32 + 30 cells occupied by black but I also need to find the best spot for those 11 cells that get evicted in that move and find a good candidate for the remaining 2 cells. Since I don't want more fragmentation than necessary. this means that each operation will affect minimum two drawers and can ripple affect over much more. and I have very little room for empty cells so that is kept to a minimum. And every time I get more parts, I will end up getting multiple growth and or shrink operation like this which is causing a pain to keep labels and inventory position up to date. And I don't know of any software that does this kind of operations on physical storage. (only harddrives)
  27. Huh, you might want to give it a shot at https://softwarerecs.stackexchange.com/ then, seems a database should be able to handle data coming in like that e.g. Box 13 Scanned Shelf 2 Scanned Box 13 is currently at Shelf 2 Box 13 Removed Shelf 2 Empty Box 13 Scanned Shelf 4 Scanned Box 13 is currently Removed Shelf 4 Empty Box 13 placed in Shelf 4 With some error handling on the front end that would be a pretty simple back end.
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